Linn Forums

Black Johnny · 2011-07-26, 22:20

That ebony does look rather nice <ponder>.
but it does clash horribly with the Urushi on the XV1. I really couldn't live with that. No really, I couldn't, oh nonononono

John G · (This post was last modified: 2011-07-26 22:33 by John G.)

(2011-07-25 21:06)Turntable Fan Wrote:
(2011-07-07 22:03)Cymbiosis Wrote: This I feel was one of my better attempts - Taken in natural light of course and the depth of shine and the grain is properly visible for once:

Beautiful looking (+1 )

I really like the looks of that one, what kind of wood is it?

Chris, your website is very nice. I can see myself with one of your plinths one of these days. Deciding which finish would be most difficult Smile

Cymbiosis · (This post was last modified: 2011-07-26 23:27 by Cymbiosis.)

(2011-07-26 22:23)John G Wrote: I really like the looks of that one, what kind of wood is it?

Chris, your website is very nice. I can see myself with one of your plinths one of these days. Deciding which finish would be most difficult

It's called Bocote John. I've only ever had this one example Here's a picture of the whole plinth I took before building it - It was stunning in the flesh, the picture hardly does it justice....

[Image: bocote31.jpg]

Peter

John G · 2011-07-26, 23:33

Thanks Peter, it's a beaut!

Chris H · (This post was last modified: 2011-07-27 00:59 by Chris H.)

Black Johnny, Please, NO, that would be a travesty! I cannot Imagine the level of clash of that Ebony with Urushi lacquer, of any color...

Actually, what would be really cool is an Urushi lacquered plinth! Hmmmmmm.......

Thank you John !

mazort · (This post was last modified: 2011-07-27 02:23 by mazort.)

I wonder if anyone might know what bases the inner circle of hooded fashionistas will be wearing with their Ekos SE's and Akivas this fall?

It seems to be a matter of getting the basics correct and then accessorizing well.

skiffle0 · 2011-07-27, 08:05

Dear Chris, my apologies if this has been covered already:

What is the reasoning behind using a different wood attached to the plinth for supporting the top plate?

I can understand that it must be easier than making out of the solid "plank" (for want of a better word), but the strip doesn't seem to be the same type of wood as the plinth itself. What would happen if, say, a plinth and supporting strips were all from the same type/sample of wood? or if the strips were made of metal (shock, horror!).

By the way, I was expecting the ebony to be all black, is this possible without stain/paint?

best wishes, Guy

Chris H · 2011-07-27, 17:35

I choose to use specific woods for the supporting strips, and blocks for a reason, and aesthetics play no part here, I want a wood that is stable. Wood expands and contracts with humidity and temperature change. Many people live in homes where at least the humidity changes seasonally. Because the tension on the main top plate studs is one of the many critical adjustments when setting up a table, say a deck was set up when the wood was swelled due to humidity, then when Winter comes, and the humidity goes down, the blocks contract, the tension on the studs loosens, the deck goes out of tune. I choose a stable wood, and finish it well. The blocks on my 2010 factory Linn plinth are made from Ash, I believe. The faces of the blocks are finished well, the end grain of the blocks not as well, but probably sufficiently. End grain is also the most susceptable to moisture movement. The blocks being so short at only 5cm, they are basically all 'end grain' I have seen a few different woods used in older plinths, and not as well finished. The finish on the new plinths is very nice. These are all things I think about in the engineering of the plinth, and that is how I deal with it. Another factor is the hardness of the blocks. When the studs are tightened, or over tightened, the top of the blocks can be compressed, dished in, to the point where the top plate dimples. Wenge is pretty hard wood (Janka hardness over 2000) it is less likely to dimple. I have also used very old Ebony (more than 70 years) for the blocks of some plinths, like Thomas' Movingui plinth. Moisture moves very slowly through Ebony, and at that age, we have some very stable wood that should help the deck stay in tune for a long time. Unfortunately, the supply for the old Ebony is almost non-existent.

I believe that there is a relationship between the qualities of the woods chosen for the top plate supporting strips, and the way vibration travels through the plinth. I am happy with Wenge, also Padouk, Ebony. The verdict is still out what is the 'best in the Universe'.

The idea of metal for the strips, in theory, is intriguing. I might have to try it. The expense of the blocks, strips, would probably equal that of an average plinth to produce, and installation / tuning, would take significant additional effort. Still, it is intriguing..

Ebony comes in many varieties. Some Ebony is all black, some has various colors in with Black, and different shades of black. Some Ebony is even light cream colored. I have a plinth in right now that is pure jet black. Joe Silva has one also, sitting next to that really pretty curly Maple plinth above. I cannot think of any reason why I would ever stain Ebony, and Ebony would not play friendly with stain anyway, it is too hard, resinous. Certainly wouldn't paint it. When I first started working with Ebony years ago, I did not care for the off colored streaking, but now I mostly prefer it. What I really like about Ebony is how it polishes.

skiffle0 · 2011-07-27, 20:02

Hi Chris,

many thanks for the comprehensive answer, much appreciated.

best wishes, Guy

Cymbiosis · (This post was last modified: 2011-07-27 20:35 by Cymbiosis.)

(2011-07-27 17:35)Chris H Wrote: I choose to use specific woods for the supporting strips, and blocks for a reason, and aesthetics play no part here, I want a wood that is stable...........Another factor is the hardness of the blocks. When the studs are tightened, or over tightened, the top of the blocks can be compressed, dished in, to the point where the top plate dimples. Wenge is pretty hard wood (Janka hardness over 2000) it is less likely to dimple. I have also used very old Ebony (more than 70 years) for the blocks of some plinths,

The idea of metal for the strips, in theory, is intriguing. I might have to try it. The expense of the blocks, strips, would probably equal that of an average plinth to produce, and installation / tuning, would take significant additional effort. Still, it is intriguing..

I see many older plinths with dimpled blocks - Not good when trying to ensure the top-plate seats properly on the strips on as much of it's area as is possible, and especially in the motor corner.... Ebony or Wenge blocks both work very well. Just take your time when tightening the screws into the Ebony blocks as they are just soooo hard. I will only use the old style stronger screws into these blocks as I live in fear of snapping the heads off the more modern type. I have had this happen a couple of times in the last year. They might have been just a little weaker than normal, so now I take no chances. - I keep a stash of the older slightly thicker type screws for this purpose!

Set up a Cocobolo and a Padouk today, both Se, Keel and XV-1t. All I can say is roll on the heavy counterweight!!! Pictures later when I get time.

Metal strips..... Sad

Personally, I think the very small amount of give with the wood ones is desirable. Experiment by all means however.

Personally if you want to improve things.... I'd research the use of brass screws in place of the steel screws used on the blocks and strips!! Cool

KR

Peter