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Tiger-Paw Akula sub chassis
2017-06-16, 07:07 (This post was last modified: 2017-06-16 07:08 by Japtim.)
Post: #141
RE: Tiger-Paw Akula sub chassis
Curare or anyone else ....

I have my aro mounted in the normal way (with arm board attached to akula)
I looked at the thought the armboard way ..and indeed the armboard comes ready supplied with the mountings at either end to fix to the plinth
But with the aro ...how does the anti skate arm fit into the picture???
It will not go through the hole in the armboard ...indeed the aro mounting boss only just fits through
Could someone tell me how this is done without either leaving the board off all together ..or cutting a bloody great hole to allow the arm / anti skate through...


any thoughts ??
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2017-06-16, 10:56
Post: #142
RE: Tiger-Paw Akula sub chassis
(2017-06-16 07:07)Japtim Wrote:  Curare or anyone else ....

I have my aro mounted in the normal way (with arm board attached to akula)
I looked at the thought the armboard way ..and indeed the armboard comes ready supplied with the mountings at either end to fix to the plinth
But with the aro ...how does the anti skate arm fit into the picture???
It will not go through the hole in the armboard ...indeed the aro mounting boss only just fits through
Could someone tell me how this is done without either leaving the board off all together ..or cutting a bloody great hole to allow the arm / anti skate through...


any thoughts ??

Hi Japtim, as you will no doubt gather, the clearances are exceptionally tight in order to allow the sub chassis to float and not contact the arm board. The sub chassis needs to be vertically as close as possible to the arm board, but not touching.

If you drop me an email I can try and get some additional info over to you

All the best, Roger
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2017-06-17, 04:54 (This post was last modified: 2017-06-17 07:17 by matthias.)
Post: #143
RE: Tiger-Paw Akula sub chassis
(2017-06-16 10:56)TPA Wrote:  
(2017-06-16 07:07)Japtim Wrote:  Curare or anyone else ....
I have my aro mounted in the normal way (with arm board attached to akula)
I looked at the thought the armboard way ..and indeed the armboard comes ready supplied with the mountings at either end to fix to the plinth
But with the aro ...how does the anti skate arm fit into the picture???
It will not go through the hole in the armboard ...indeed the aro mounting boss only just fits through
Could someone tell me how this is done without either leaving the board off all together ..or cutting a bloody great hole to allow the arm / anti skate through...
any thoughts ??
Hi Japtim, as you will no doubt gather, the clearances are exceptionally tight in order to allow the sub chassis to float and not contact the arm board. The sub chassis needs to be vertically as close as possible to the arm board, but not touching.
If you drop me an email I can try and get some additional info over to you
All the best, Roger

Hi Roger,
it would be nice to share these informations here too for all interested in the fixed armboard solution.
Thank you

Matt

LP12 / Exposure / JBL3677
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2017-06-24, 12:25
Post: #144
RE: Tiger-Paw Akula sub chassis
(2017-06-17 04:54)matthias Wrote:  
(2017-06-16 10:56)TPA Wrote:  
(2017-06-16 07:07)Japtim Wrote:  Curare or anyone else ....
I have my aro mounted in the normal way (with arm board attached to akula)
I looked at the thought the armboard way ..and indeed the armboard comes ready supplied with the mountings at either end to fix to the plinth
But with the aro ...how does the anti skate arm fit into the picture???
It will not go through the hole in the armboard ...indeed the aro mounting boss only just fits through
Could someone tell me how this is done without either leaving the board off all together ..or cutting a bloody great hole to allow the arm / anti skate through...
any thoughts ??
Hi Japtim, as you will no doubt gather, the clearances are exceptionally tight in order to allow the sub chassis to float and not contact the arm board. The sub chassis needs to be vertically as close as possible to the arm board, but not touching.
If you drop me an email I can try and get some additional info over to you
All the best, Roger

Hi Roger,
it would be nice to share these informations here too for all interested in the fixed armboard solution.
Thank you

Matt



Yes quite happy to see any info shared on here ...it then becomes a resource for future questions

But I cannot envisage how the Aro anti skate wire arm can in any way fit through the armboard hole ...especially with the allan head bolt to hold it to the base also needing to go through??
So some enlightenment would be appreciated!!
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2017-06-24, 13:32 (This post was last modified: 2017-06-24 13:53 by curare.)
Post: #145
RE: Tiger-Paw Akula sub chassis
(2017-06-13 15:26)matthias Wrote:  
(2017-06-12 14:24)curare Wrote:  My personal appreciation scale would be:

1- Keel
2- Akula armboard mounted on plinth only with adjustment set up for the cartridge. In this case it is extremely close to the Keel. But you have to know what to do and be able to do it. With Tranquillity fitted is definetly Keel level and between the two is really difficult to choose.
3- Tangerine Plateau (of a friend of mine). It has the same consistency of the Keel and 90% of its sonic performance.
4- Akula standard mounted armboard
5- Kore, GreenStreet Audio, RubiKon (I guess no longer in production). They are on the same level of performance. Choosing between them is a matter of taste.

All this with a Naim Aro tonearm.
For Linn tonearms I only have a Keel so I cannot compare.

PS: I will be in vacation for 2 weeks so please don't curse me if you ask me a question and I don't answer it...

IMO, we have to consider that curare owns a LP12 with Prefix.
The design of the Prefix favours the "armboard mounted on plinth" so that this solution might be sonically better because of the Prefix only.

Matt


hello,

I don't use only Prefix.
Actually my main prephonos are two: a Grandinote Celio and a Lamm LP2. And my findings for the Akula are the same with any of these three pre phono.
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2017-06-24, 14:03 (This post was last modified: 2017-06-24 14:06 by curare.)
Post: #146
RE: Tiger-Paw Akula sub chassis
(2017-06-24 12:25)Japtim Wrote:  
(2017-06-17 04:54)matthias Wrote:  
(2017-06-16 10:56)TPA Wrote:  
(2017-06-16 07:07)Japtim Wrote:  Curare or anyone else ....
I have my aro mounted in the normal way (with arm board attached to akula)
I looked at the thought the armboard way ..and indeed the armboard comes ready supplied with the mountings at either end to fix to the plinth
But with the aro ...how does the anti skate arm fit into the picture???
It will not go through the hole in the armboard ...indeed the aro mounting boss only just fits through
Could someone tell me how this is done without either leaving the board off all together ..or cutting a bloody great hole to allow the arm / anti skate through...
any thoughts ??
Hi Japtim, as you will no doubt gather, the clearances are exceptionally tight in order to allow the sub chassis to float and not contact the arm board. The sub chassis needs to be vertically as close as possible to the arm board, but not touching.
If you drop me an email I can try and get some additional info over to you
All the best, Roger

Hi Roger,
it would be nice to share these informations here too for all interested in the fixed armboard solution.
Thank you

Matt



Yes quite happy to see any info shared on here ...it then becomes a resource for future questions

But I cannot envisage how the Aro anti skate wire arm can in any way fit through the armboard hole ...especially with the allan head bolt to hold it to the base also needing to go through??
So some enlightenment would be appreciated!!

hello,
before you have to unscrew the anti skate arm, fit the subchassis through the armboard fixed to the plinth and then srew the antiskat arm back again. As Roger said the clearences are very tight. I had to remove the nice metal collar that you could glue for to be nice looking reason (you can see in the pictures the sign of the glue) since I had a too tight clearance for peace of mind.

Actually to mount the Akula with the armboard fixed to the plinth is a completely straight and easy job, but it is very well worthed for my sonic taste.
Remember that at a first listen you could be surprised by the result in a negative way. Everything sound more relaxed or flat if you will, like some energy of the music is lost, but I think this very first impression is due to the wiping of some colorations that gives a kind of compression to some frequencies boosting them and giving them some fake energy. If at the end you compensate for this with adapting the setting (VTA and cartridge load) the result is an improvement, again for me. And I repeated it after few months and I have the same impression.
When you don't adapt things then the classical armboard mounted on the subchassis is musically superior.

yes I forgot the pictures. Here you have them.


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2017-06-24, 15:16 (This post was last modified: 2017-06-24 15:26 by matthias.)
Post: #147
RE: Tiger-Paw Akula sub chassis
(2017-06-24 14:03)curare Wrote:  As Roger said the clearences are very tight. I had to remove the nice metal collar that you could glue for to be nice looking reason (you can see in the pictures the sign of the glue) since I had a too tight clearance for peace of mind.

curare,
thank you.
IMO, the hole in the tonearm board is too small and after removing of the metal collar it looks not very nice.
The clearance between the Akula and the board should be the same as between board and plinth.
The best solution would be to make the hole bigger and to get rid of the metal collar.

Matt

LP12 / Exposure / JBL3677
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