Broken cueing lever housing

[Straff]

Greetings, first post.

The cueing lever on my Akito2 seemed loose so I decided to tighten it. Whoops, overdid it and cracked the lever housing which is part of the 'operating housing' (the piece containing the anti-skate dial on the end.)

Given that I scarcely ever used the lever in the first place, and am perfectly happy without it, is it worth going to the bother of carting the deck off to a dealer (quite a hike and I've no car) or is the crack and subsequent removal of the redundant lever unlikely to have any deleterious effect on the arm's operation? It sounds perfectly OK, no different.
I have a pdf of an exploded view of the Akito so I know the spare part number but given all the bits contained in the housing (spring, cam etc) I'd be hesitant to tackle it myself.

Any views/advice appreciated.

[What You See and Hear Expert Linn Retailer]

(2010-10-27 00:15)Straff Wrote:  Greetings, first post.

The cueing lever on my Akito2 seemed loose so I decided to tighten it. Whoops, overdid it and cracked the lever housing which is part of the 'operating housing' (the piece containing the anti-skate dial on the end.)

Given that I scarcely ever used the lever in the first place, and am perfectly happy without it, is it worth going to the bother of carting the deck off to a dealer (quite a hike and I've no car) or is the crack and subsequent removal of the redundant lever unlikely to have any deleterious effect on the arm's operation? It sounds perfectly OK, no different.
I have a pdf of an exploded view of the Akito so I know the spare part number but given all the bits contained in the housing (spring, cam etc) I'd be hesitant to tackle it myself.

Any views/advice appreciated.

Hi

If you don't need the cueing lever its best to remove it as it wil affect performance if it's loose.

To do this will mean lifting the arm in the collar to allow the cylinder to be removed from below so you could try , but whatever you do don't overtighten the collar afterwards otherwise you can easily damage the bearings.

To fix this properly would mean sending the arm to Linn and having it rebuilt.This will cost at least £300.00 plus carriage and dealer labour,and I would not bother unless you cannot hand cue.

Regards.

[ThomasOK]

I have been able to repair a couple of these with superglue but you have to be careful. First you must remove the set screw so it doesn't end up glued in place and remove the cueing device as well. Then put a drop or two of the thin type of superglue (not the gel)into the crack and let it dry completely. Once it is dry you can reinsert the set screw and cueing device. Be gentle with the set screw or it will crack again.

Perhaps not the ideal fix but I have been able to get it to work a couple of times and it is much less costly than sending the arm back to Linn for a rebuild. As Colin notes this would be the only way to have the plastic part replaced as it requires disassembly of the arm to remove it.

If you aren't going to repair it you should remove it altogether as Colin suggests as sitting there loose it will negatively effect performance.

[Straff]

Just a quick thanks to Colin and Thomas for their advice. I decided to remove the cueing device rather than fork out a great deal of money on a Linn service for something I never use. The arm is now back in place and sounds just as good as it did before. And at least to my eyes it looks better