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LP12 Set-up - a brief overview.
2011-02-13, 21:28
Post: #31
RE: Setting up your LP12 - a brief overview.
(2011-02-13 18:36)Cymbiosis Wrote:  
(2011-02-13 17:12)HBerg Wrote:  Don't forget there is still some LP12's in US using the 60Hz motor, Peter. They should pull the motor fully away from the bearing due to its smaller pulley.......

Thank you HBerg. Yes, although I have only ever fitted 50Hz motors myself, there are some certain circumstances where the 17mm 60Hz motor pulley may be fitted. These are with the original PS, some original Valhallas and if you use an Armageddon. In this situation one would have both motor mount bolts at the extreme outside of their slots, thus the motor is pulled away from the sub-platter and belt tension preserved. Speed adjustment is then achieved in exactly the same way as a 50Hz motor - To be covered soon.

BTW all later Valhallas use the 50Hz pulley including those supplied to the USA, as do all Lingos and likewise all Hercules use the 50Hz pulley AC motor too.

I'm sure Thomas can fill in any blanks with respect to this, if he feels there are any as there is little further information I've been able to reference on this.

I'm glad HBerg mentioned this. All 60Hz motors do need to have the mounting bolts as far away from the platter as possible for proper belt tension. The power supplies which necessitate this include the Majik PS along with the others mentioned above. For those in the US where this applies there is an easy way to tell which size motor is fitted if you don't have a metric ruler handy: the 60Hz motor pulley is almost exactly the size of an American dime at the top whereas the 50Hz motor pulley is almost exactly the size of a nickel.

One other point to note on motor mounting. On very early LP12s the motor didn't have the dome shaped washers but instead a piece of cork in between the motor and top plate. These motors also generally had a metal bracket with a spring pressing against the bottom of the motor shaft instead of the cup arrangement shown for Valhalla power supplies in the photos. In the case of these LP12s I would always recommend replacing the cork with the dome shaped washers and removing the spring and bracket arrangement. New motor mount bolts and nuts are likely to be needed along with the washers and a cup and spring bearing can also be fitted where required.

On the fitting of the subchassis the instructions are quite clear and cover it well. While I tend to fit the subchassis with the plinth right side up I follow the same procedure. I do note there is an * after "selected" and before "springs" that doesn't take us anywhere. Perhaps Peter intended a footnote but forgot to include it? Also note on the first photo of the upside down plinth that there is a watch and ring on the table. This does not mean that Peter is about to entertain a floozy and doesn't care about the time!Smile It is because he wants to make sure he doesn't ding or scratch the plinth, subchassis, arm, etc. A sensible precaution. I also find taking the bracelet I often wear off my right arm a good idea when I am working on electronics rather than letting it dangle over live voltages!Wink

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2011-02-13, 23:09 (This post was last modified: 2011-02-13 23:18 by Cymbiosis.)
Post: #32
RE: Setting up your LP12 - a brief overview.
(2011-02-13 21:28)ThomasOK Wrote:  While I tend to fit the subchassis with the plinth right side up I follow the same procedure. I do note there is an * after "selected" and before "springs" that doesn't take us anywhere. Perhaps Peter intended a footnote but forgot to include it? Also note on the first photo of the upside down plinth that there is a watch and ring on the table. This does not mean that Peter is about to entertain a floozy and doesn't care about the time!Smile It is because he wants to make sure he doesn't ding or scratch the plinth, subchassis, arm, etc. A sensible precaution. I also find taking the bracelet I often wear off my right arm a good idea when I am working on electronics rather than letting it dangle over live voltages!Wink

Thanks Thomas, couple of points to cover:

I like having gravity working with me rather than against me, but it's upto the individual as to what's most comfortable, that's all that matters reallySmile

*Selected and still editing Thomas! Just as I was writing about this very thing earlier on the Fluted Rosewood plinth thread after Colin lost his work earlier.... Very frustrating for him, and so I post the skeleton and then add bits along with pictures, so my posts seldom go up in one go as I like to arrange and ensure it reads as clearly as possible too.

Indeed, watch ring or even glasses crop up in my pictures on the work top, as I now have a second set for really close (below 15cm) work like easing on cartridge tags and cartridge alignment etc.

Regarding, voltages I strongly recommend that anyone working on their own deck always disconnects the mains supply before any internal work is attempted on their LP12. Live voltages are dangerous!!!!

Remember, safety first please and these stipulations are necessary for this thread to continue.

I or any other participating members, do not accept any liability whatsoever for works attempted or injury sustained actual or alleged, following your reading of any information contained here.

If in doubt, always take your LP12 to your LP12 Specialist Retailer - We are well worth the effort.

KR

Peter

Fettling LP12s since 1980
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Email - peter@cymbiosis.com
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2011-02-13, 23:24
Post: #33
RE: Setting up your LP12 - a brief overview.
Two thoughts.

Make this an important thread. A sticky.

Put disclaimers in a post that has not and will not be edited.

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2011-02-13, 23:56 (This post was last modified: 2011-02-13 23:57 by vicdiaz.)
Post: #34
RE: Setting up your LP12 - a brief overview.
I need one of those T-bars!!! Tongue

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2011-02-14, 01:20
Post: #35
RE: Setting up your LP12 - a brief overview.
(2011-02-13 23:56)vicdiaz Wrote:  I need one of those T-bars!!! Tongue

Hard to justify unless you setup a lot of LP12's. Once you level everything, it's not likely to change for the life of the deck. Get a good initial setup from someone with the right tools and you should be golden as far as any need for a t-bar goes.

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2011-02-14, 04:28
Post: #36
RE: Setting up your LP12 - a brief overview.
(2011-02-13 23:09)Cymbiosis Wrote:  
(2011-02-13 21:28)ThomasOK Wrote:  While I tend to fit the subchassis with the plinth right side up I follow the same procedure. I do note there is an * after "selected" and before "springs" that doesn't take us anywhere. Perhaps Peter intended a footnote but forgot to include it? Also note on the first photo of the upside down plinth that there is a watch and ring on the table. This does not mean that Peter is about to entertain a floozy and doesn't care about the time!Smile It is because he wants to make sure he doesn't ding or scratch the plinth, subchassis, arm, etc. A sensible precaution. I also find taking the bracelet I often wear off my right arm a good idea when I am working on electronics rather than letting it dangle over live voltages!Wink

Thanks Thomas, couple of points to cover:

I like having gravity working with me rather than against me, but it's upto the individual as to what's most comfortable, that's all that matters reallySmile

*Selected and still editing Thomas! Just as I was writing about this very thing earlier on the Fluted Rosewood plinth thread after Colin lost his work earlier.... Very frustrating for him, and so I post the skeleton and then add bits along with pictures, so my posts seldom go up in one go as I like to arrange and ensure it reads as clearly as possible too.

Indeed, watch ring or even glasses crop up in my pictures on the work top, as I now have a second set for really close (below 15cm) work like easing on cartridge tags and cartridge alignment etc.

Regarding, voltages I strongly recommend that anyone working on their own deck always disconnects the mains supply before any internal work is attempted on their LP12. Live voltages are dangerous!!!!

Remember, safety first please and these stipulations are necessary for this thread to continue.

I or any other participating members, do not accept any liability whatsoever for works attempted or injury sustained actual or alleged, following your reading of any information contained here.

If in doubt, always take your LP12 to your LP12 Specialist Retailer - We are well worth the effort.

KR

Peter

Ah, I didn't realize you worked on your posts that way - I see that you have already added to the post I commented on. I understand the problem with losing a post you have worked a lot on as it has happened to me as well. Since I spend a fair amount of time composing and proofreading my posts, when I have a lengthy post (the cynical out there might say that is all the timeWink) I usually compose it offline, check and correct it and then copy it over to the reply. This has saved me a lot of work several times. But I try not to edit my posts once posted except to correct small errors as I feel it is confusing when someone posts something, then someone comments on it, then the original post is edited and the comments that follow no longer make sense.

I certainly agree with the safety warnings and disclaimer, which will appear yet again in the quote above. As a general rule I don't work inside a live LP12. Being shocked by a Valhalla a couple is an adequate teacher of precaution.Sad I was actually refering more to other minor electronic repairs I occasionally perform. It is not unusual for me to be inside a running CD player to try and troubleshoot a disc playback problem. Needless to say, having my silver bracelet touch a live circuit board wouldn't do the CD player or me any good!Wink

LP12SE Movingui • KRadikal • Kandid • Urika • Kremlin • LS-NAS • KRDS • Lejonklou Sagatun Monos & Tundra Mono 2As • JBL 3677s & 4645C Sub • NOKTable • Harmoni Mimer/Tor Racks
AV: Pioneer BDP51 BluRay • Akurate Kontrol • 2 LK280 SPARK • 4 Isobarik DMS • 2 DQ1W

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2011-02-14, 04:53
Post: #37
RE: Setting up your LP12 - a brief overview.
(2011-02-14 01:20)John G Wrote:  Hard to justify unless you setup a lot of LP12's.

I do my own LP12 setup and did setup quite a sizable number of LP12s in the late 80's when working as a Linn dealer. Even own a setup jig, but the T-bar has been eluding me for too long!

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2011-02-14, 11:02
Post: #38
RE: Setting up your LP12 - a brief overview.
(2011-02-14 04:28)ThomasOK Wrote:  I certainly agree with the safety warnings and disclaimer, which will appear yet again in the quote above. As a general rule I don't work inside a live LP12. Being shocked by a Valhalla a couple is an adequate teacher of precaution

I know, but I am trying to work within good safety guidelines as set out to me by HQ in trying to write this Forum guide for members benefit and to give members an idea of just how much is involved in correct LP12 set-up when a dealer does the work for them. There is much to say, but safety is always paramount.

Hence me reiterating the safety message again along with the necessary disclaimers.

Peter

Fettling LP12s since 1980
Tel 0333 200 4475
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2011-02-14, 12:54
Post: #39
RE: Setting up your LP12 - a brief overview.
Peter.

Any chance of making this into a PDF document that people can download?

Andrew.

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2011-02-14, 13:13
Post: #40
RE: Setting up your LP12 - a brief overview.
(2011-02-14 12:54)flatpopely Wrote:  Peter.

Any chance of making this into a PDF document that people can download?

Andrew.

I would have thought that it would be easy enough for anyone who wanted to keep a copy to cut and paste the relevant bits of the thread into one document using whatever "Office" type app they have to hand. I've just tried it with OpenOffice Writer and it works fine if the page layout is set to landscape - all the photos come across nicely. Writer could even export to PDF format if absolutely necessary. That way, the individual can add notes of their own, or update as necessary.

Of course, I'm assuming that people have a suitable app on their PC/Mac/whatever, but OpenOffice is free if they haven't.

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